Sican
Full Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Sican on Aug 19, 2004 16:11:04 GMT -5
OK.... neither Steve nor Eric are going to gloat about Wednesday's surf at Bolsa, so I will!!!! Fantastico!! Every 6-7 minutes a monster, overhead, A-frame screamer!!! ... A shallow inside, a rough entry, some serious close outs, first time on a different board and the fact that we haven't seen this kind of surf for quite a while had me a little jumpy at first, but there's nothing like being launched into the stratosphere exiting the first wave, followed by a serious wipe-out on the second to get over that. Got my first ever taste of what the right board can do. It felt like the board was gripping tightly on even the steepest of faces, but only using a razors-edge of a rail and maybe the very tip of the inside fin. Unbeleivable! Just when I was losing my faith and my passion was being to wane.
But I am sore from the hard and never-ending upstream paddle of Bolsa... never did get passed the end of the parking lot.
I'll leave more to Steve and Eric.
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Post by Ripp on Aug 19, 2004 19:23:28 GMT -5
having a apanker (new) 7'0" w/m custom at home & not setting it up for about 2 months lets in on how bad the surf has been recently - it's about time the south pacific sent us something - i've put in 150 miles plus on my paddleboard during the last few months - so to see OH surf scheduled - i was like a little kid a few days before chrimbo ! We scored ! As we walked along the beach our paces increased & pulses increased - we had scored ! Just the right kind of day to ease back into OH surf - it's funny how 3 months of 6" ripples change ones perspective - during winter OH is considered average - after 3 months of nada - it was exhilarating & just perfect. Esp the interval's inbetween sets - a staggering 4-6 mins made for no hassle paddle outs. A frame bombs - up & down the beach - boardies looking at us like "what da heck" gotta luv that & then vanish & drop down the face of a 6' bomb to then re-emerge off the top & flash them the bottom of the board - & send a spray shower over their way - no better feeling than that. Eric got the first bomb & paddled back out with the biggest stoopidest grin ever ;D Slight current had us paddling most of the time inbetween sets - but that took care of the crowds - they drifted by - never to be seen again.... Peaks were perfect & the shoulders were just there for the taking. Simon shook his early nerves - understandable on a new board & on a OH day to snag some freight trains - now he has experienced speed - no holding him back ! We drove by the seal beach water mouth jetty on our way home - slurping on a Bogarts double latte & raving on about our rides. The rivermouth was firing as well. Not a bad way to start a Wed morning - finally - alas no we wait in pain for the next southerly impulse to come our...... Ripp
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Post by Eric on Aug 19, 2004 23:26:54 GMT -5
I'm pumped! The south was sweet...but I hear there might be a bit of a north next week. Time to head up above Conception, Plasket Creek? There's no stopin now - Let the good times(waves) roll! ;D
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Post by Ashley on Aug 20, 2004 14:26:11 GMT -5
I have to tell you Si, it’s not the right board particularly, it’s more the conditions and matching the right sized board to those good conditions. The 8ft Fun board you borrowed was a chore lately because the waves were just too dang small, though you still did great on it to learn. It did just fine on that bump when I rode it this last week, you would swear it's not the same board! Sounds like a 6' to 8' were perfect for these waves. If I were you I would still keep an eye out for a 9 or 10’ for the slow days. Am stoked the 7’0” is working for you, but it will be frustrating now the swell is backing down. See I know what you mean, the board just comes alive under your feet. I have experienced it on both the Fun Board and the Wooden 9'6" I have. But then in the wrong conditions, it's just feels like a plank. Aside from waveski's, the most versatile board I have seen to date is Allen’s Fish, it seems to work in all conditions. I think he wants to sell the new one he is getting and order a shorter one, you may want to make him an offer, I bet he would take installments. Let me know when you want to try that old Gun I have, I also have a 6’7” potato chip board, we can give that a go when the winter swells hit!
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